- The wind is what causes waves. At first it starts with ripples, then those form wavelets and then waves.
- The distance the wind travels over the ocean to form waves it known as fetch.
- Waves in the open ocean don't break because they are higher up on the ocean seabed, but when they reach the shore they release there energy and break.
- Spilling waves are waves that break far from the beaches, meaning that body boarders can body board because they are safe from hitting anyone. Plunging waves are waves that break on the beach creating barrels. And surging waves are waves that just wash up, there are no breaks and its just a gental wave that rolls up the beach, creating erosion.
- Wind swells are when the wind hits the water and greats waves that are close to the shore. These waves occur more frequently because they are close to the shore. Ground waves are a lot less frequent and occur way out in the ocean, creating bigger waves.
- There are three types of waves that you must look out for, so if you want to find the best ones, you need to know what ones you like. There are spilling waves, which break on the shores, best for body boarding and swimming. Plunging waves, which are the best for surfers because there are barrels. And then there's surging waves which are flat waves which no breaks.
Sorry sir i couldnt get the pictures where i wanted them so there at the top.
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